¿Como armar un buen motor? de velocidad

[snhiper]

Asi es un motor con galleta y que no falle para nada es barato, y cada fierro modificado que compras implica que hay que modificar algo mas.

si partes de todo nuevo como dice el Killer nomas de partes contando con cabezas nuevas minimo una cb performance necesitas mas de 35000 pesos mas accesorios externos mas o menos 45000,

pues si, eso que ni que, lo bueno cuesta jejeje...pero dura... y elprecio es más o menos lo que traigo presupuestado jejeje

[snhiper]

Coincido con la banda que si quieres un motor bastente rapido o que funcione exageradamente bien... no hay vuelta te va acostar y un buen.... las piezas propiamente de motor como cigueñal, arbol, etc, cualquiera que sea para modificar, algunas no son nada baratas.... por eso en lo posible todo nuevo o usadito pero en inmejorables condiciones de uso...  

De hecho Snhiper la gente del club Old School andan con motores que platica Meme... ellos disfrutan la carretera en los eventos... y siempre bien confiables... la tranny es parte de la clave de la soltura que tienen sus motores en la carretera, uno que otro aditamento de mejora (aclaro no piezas para darle potencia traducida en velocidad)... pero es porque lo usan para eso...

Si lo usas para correr o con mas modificaciones y mayor cilindrada en viajes largos pues si esta mas cañon porque el desgaste es bastante, el combustible es mas notorio y requiere mas ajustes..

Hechate la vuelta a los eventos en la medida que puedas ahi veras muchas opciones de arreglo... me ha tocado ver algunos con turbina de porsche y carbus dobles pero la cilindrada es ligeramente mayor y es gente foranea...

Slds ahi nos platicas

...

Que onda MI dani, la idea si es como tu comentas, quiero un motor galletón para llevarmelo a darle unas pisadas de ves en cuando y claro, llevarlo de paseo tambien, para eso se que la tranny es la buena, pero tambien quiero sentir que una buena pisada el carro si me va a responder....

Saludos!

[snhiper]

quieres un motor aka knmadre?
asi sin tirar tanto rock en explicaciones.......billete papa, billete!!
de lo contrario todos trairiamos un maquinon bruto!!
Suerte!!

jjajajaa ahí si ni como negarlo, es lo que manda, la lana, y pues es un hecho que lo quiero hacer, solo como ya lo comenté, no gastar innecesariamente, sino gastar lo mejor pero justo...

Saludos

[snhiper]

pos yo te rekomiemdo un buen taller el del mike de chapultepek,pa ke te kañes en precios,akuerdate ke el imss no es lo mismo ke el muguerza,digo top

De hecho ya fui con Mike ya que el me iba a enjaular todo el baja por dentro y por fuera antes de la tragedia jejeje...

[killer bug 80]

En pocas palabras ir diseñando el motor, con pros y contras y ya una ves bien pensadito y balanceado...ya se arma...
no se si me explico jejeje...

por cierto el motor que andas armando cuantos hp's traerá más  o menos??

este es un tema muy polemico , lo que pasa aqui es que tienes muchas preguntas en tu cabeza , diseñar un motor desde cero implica muchisimas cosas desde calcular mediante formulas todas las medidas de las piezas por usar y elegir calidades de materiales para los fierros etc. etc. , usar un buen programa de diseño de motores que haga todos esos calculos teoricos por ti o la mas facil y utilizada por la mayoria de los mecanicos revisteros , copiar el motor de alguna nave que haya salido en una revista como vw treends o hotvw en las cuales por lo general vienen fichas tecnicas donde traen exactamente los fierros que traen en el motor y hasta la transmision y altura de llantas dichas naves .

cilindradas hay muchas y puedes tener 3 motores diferentes con la misma cilindrada ya que hay 3 tipos de motores de acuerdo a su configuracion interna .

el primero es el motor subcuadrado o alargado el cual la carrera del cigueñal es proporcionalmente mas grande que el diametro de su piston .

el segundo es el motor cuadrado , el cual la proporcion de la carrera de su cigueñal y el diametro del piston es relativamente igual .

y el ultimo es el motor supercuadrado , el cual su diametro de piston es proporcionalmente mayor a la carrera de su cigueñal .

como puedes ver utilizando 3 diferentes medidas de cigueñal y 3 diferentes medidas de piston puedes obtener 3 motores de la misma cilindrada pero los 3 con diferente desempeño y prestaciones , esto seria lo primero en definir cuando vas a diseñar tu propio motor , dependiendo de para que va a ser utilizado el motor debes seleccionar uno de los 3 tipos y este debera ser el que se presta mas para para los fines que buscas .

asi podria seguir haciendo una larguisima lista de todo lo que se requiere pero seria aburridisimo y quizas mucho muy confuso para la mayoria .

por otro lado tambien se puede hacer un motor 1600cc de 160 hp y hacer un 2000cc con los mismos 160h.p.  , pero obviamente un 1600 con ese caballaje esta mas comprometido que un 2 lts. en cuanto a durabilidad y temperatura con todo y que metas buenos fierros , de alli la importancia nuevamente de saber para que se quiere el motor .

el que se esta armando para el oldblack segun el programa dyno engine debe entregar alrededor de 170 a 180 h.p al volante inercial con los fierritos que se le van a instalar y el trabajo que se le va ha hacer , pero yo estimo que seran alrededor de 165 h.p al volante o unos 130 h.p. reales a las ruedas aprox.

desgraciadamente por este medio no te podemos ayudar tanto como quisieramos y todos te vamos a dar diferentes opiniones , yo podria recomendarte algo que para mi seria tu mejor opcion pero ese algo quizas para las demas personas que saben del tema no seria lo ideal , igual y con todo respeto yo pensaria lo mismo de lo que te ofrecieran cada uno de ellos , pero esto es asi , cada preparador , mecanico , armador , media cuchara , del muguerza , imss o dispensario del dif va a ofrecerte la formula que a el mejor le queda o mejor le funciona segun sus conosimientos o experiencias , porque muchas veces se arma al azar y como puedan salir malos resultados tambien pueden salir muy buenos chiripadones y ya quedo la experiencia sin saber por que sucedio pero bueno .

lo ideal es que te acerques a platicar en persona con los talleres de tu confianza , los de renombre o con el mecanico de la esquina y ver que te ofrecen y sus costos y de alli elige la formula para tu motor que mas te convenga y de preferencia que la persona que te dio dicha formula sea la que te haga dicho trabajo , porque ella sabe como hacer funcionar bien esa formula y quizas otra persona no podra hacerla funcionar tan bien como el .

saludos .

[jessesave]

bien aplicada la explicacion killer.

[snhiper]

No pues ni hablar creo tienes toda la razón, será mejor checarlo de manera individual las prestaciones, de antemano se agradece el apoyo brindado, y no quito el pie del renglón, por hay andaré visitandolos...

Saludos!

[killer bug 80]

No pues ni hablar creo tienes toda la razón, será mejor checarlo de manera individual las prestaciones, de antemano se agradece el apoyo brindado, y no quito el pie del renglón, por hay andaré visitandolos...

Saludos!

tu echale ganas viejo y bien echo en no quitar el dedo del renglon , pero antes que nada informate bien de todo , se que es fastidioso andar a la vuelta y vuelta preguntando a medio mundo y viendo caras para ver que opciones te dan , pero es la unica manera de que tu puedas despejar si no todas deperdido la mayor parte de tus dudas , algunos te daran informacion detallada otros no pero asi es esto .

invertir la cantidad que tu tienes pensada en un motor no es cualquier cosa y pues te entiendo yo aria lo mismo , antes de gastar tanto quiero saber en que estoy invirtiendo mi dinero y que tan bien o mal lo voy a invertir .

talleres conocidos o de " renombre " por llamarlos de alguna manera a los que puedes darte la vuelta , estan micke mortificaciones , el de ruli palacios racing , mejia racing , el de mario garza , motor express aunque ya no esta el que sabia un buen de eso pero esta su hermano que tambien le mueve , en fin todos los que veas que andan en la volks sport o en 1/4 de milla , todos son personas conosidas en el mundo motor , no necesariamente son todos buenos pero son conocidos y le mueven a los motores .

aqui seguimos para lo que se ofresca , saludos .

bien aplicada la explicacion killer.

pues nomas trate de explicarlo lo mas entendible que se pudiera para que snhiper o demas raza que ande en ese mismo dilema , saludos .

[Yudelgr]

 

Saludos!

Creo que entiendo tus dudas, aqui te dejo unos datos solo que estan en ingles ahi le buscas la traduccion, la podria hacer pero tengo trabajo que hacer pero me llamo la atencion el tema la info viene de una paguina que vende partes a la vez que el maquinado y preparacion de motores y aqui estan los errores mas comunes al armar un motor stock.

Common Mistakes Made when Building a VW Motor
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Stock Motors
# 1 - Using Silicon Seal in Excess (We Strongly suggest any type sealer but Silicon Seal) We personally like Gasgacinch Sealer
# 2 - Failure to clean all Oil Passages in the case and oil passages in Crank (new or used), also not flushing the old Oil Cooler.
# 3 - Removing Flywheel with Pry Bars is wrong. Always use Flywheel Puller and replace the Gland nut with a new one and torque to
         proper specifications (217 ft Lbs)    ** Make a tap to clean gland nut threads **
# 4 - Checking 10mm Head Studs when motor is being disassembled. and torque head studs properly.
# 5  - Heat both the Steel and brass gears before installing on crank.
# 6 - Main Bearings not properly installed on bearing dowels. Mark bearings in case before installing bearing on crank.
# 7 - Clean all gasket sealer from case studs before rebuilding. Run die over threads to insure proper torque. Note: the threading die should
         be set loose enough to clean the threads not cut or remove any metal.
# 8 - Checking case for warped before assembling motor. (Center main bearing saddles)
# 9 - Check Cam Tunnel every time case is align bored.
# 10 - Checking Lifter Bores at time of teardown and Lifter clearance on rebuild with aftermarket cams .040" min cam to lifter .Low oil Pressure
# 11 - Check Piston to Head Deck height. (Minimum is .040") (.060" minimum when using 92's are 94's)
# 12 - Set Distributor Drive End Play before bolting case together "Never turn crank until distributor is installed.
# 13 - Setting Flywheel end-play properly with 3-shims, new "O" ring and metal gasket with main bearing next to flywheel tight on case flange.
# 14 - Timing must be set to proper specification. "Depending on Distributor" Can not be set by ear.
# 15 - Never forget to install deflector tin under the cylinders. If you don't run the thermostat, Weld flaps in open position.
# 16 - Always keep it clean (very clean) Clean
# 17 - New Cams must have proper break-in (see cam card for instructions) Cam Break- In
# 18 - Correct Rocker Arm Geometry after installing High Lift Cam, Fly-cutting Heads or resurfacing cylinder seating surfaces. Check Valve
           Springs for coil binding. (minimum of .100" clearance) check if "0" rings are used under rocker arm stands (some do some don't)
# 19 - Caution when replacing Oil Cooler Seals. Be sure the correct seals are used and spacer washer if needed. Diameter must be correct for
            case & cooler and correct thickness.
# 20 - Change Oil after cam break-in & reset valves.
# 21 - Checking out new cases. Quality on some new cases is poor, some manufactures make corrections quickly and some don't seem to care.
           We recommend  checking every new case just like you would check an old case before a rebuild. Oil relief Plunger Seating.
#22 - Trying to Remove Broken Exhaust Studs with Easy-Outs or Stud Extractors    How to remove Broken Ex. Studs--> *info



en el siguiente post continua.


 

[Yudelgr]

 

Y Ahora van los errores al preparar un motor Big bore.


 Larger then Stock Motors add the following.
# 1 - Not resetting compression ratio (Compression Raito goes up as cylinder size is increased)
         Note: minimum Deck height with 92's and larger cylinders is .060"
# 2 - Always check for air leaks after any rebuild
# 3 - Case savers must be below cylinder seating surface. Cylinders must not be setting on case savers.
# 4 - Re-torque Head Studs after 1500 to 3000 miles. Re-torque all, this means removing tin.
# 5 - Re-jetting Carb or Carbs after any Changes. Just because Fast Freddy has the same size motor you can't use the same jetting.
         every motor needs to be jetted. You can not copy jetting from another motor just like yours.
# 6 - Opening up Valve Pockets after installing larger cylinders (Most Important with Big Valve Heads)
# 7 - Use H.D. Gland Nut and torque to proper specifications. "Remember the Gland nut might be good for 350 plus lbs but how about the
         crank threads.
# 8 - Crank Grinding. Remember VW Cranks are ground with larger radiuses the most cars so the local crank grinder might cause the cranks
         to break.
# 9- Over Doing the three "C" First time motor builders quite often have to learn the hard way (some never learn) Don't get carried away with
        over Cam-ing, Over-Compression, and Over-Carburetion 
#10-Never use the stock oil strainer in any of my high performance motor that has an external flow oil filters. The small amount of restriction on
        the intake side is not wanted.

         We are a strong believer of placing a large magnet in the oil pan and in the bottom of the Transmission. It will pick up any loose metal so it don't cause any father damage. Harbor Freight has the Rattle Snake Magnets

Note: Some of the New VW cases have the oil pump inlet and outlet passages in new locations. Make sure the passages in the case align up to the ones in the
 oil pump. Also check for aluminum flashing in all the cast passages


Ahora acerca de los Arboles de levas.





           
  Above are three cams,  Can you guess which one has the largest Duration and Lift
The point we are trying to make is that all three cams have the same lift (L) and duration (D).
As you can see they are obviously  not even close to being the same.
If cam "B" is the correct design then cam "A" would have more Low End but produce less H.P.
and be more likely to float the valves.
Cam "C" would have lots of Top End but would produce a very narrow power band and be very
hard on the valve train since the valves would be opening so fast,
As you can see it is nearly impossible to compare or evaluate cams by the "numbers" only. 
So when it comes time to pick a cam it is wise to get advice from some one who has tried a verity of cams in motor's similar to the one you will installed it in.
Stock cams as used in the 1200cc to1600cc VW motor had about 225 degrees duration & 285/300 lift this comes out about .214°@.050" and .334" valve lift with stock 1.1:1 rockers..(1200 used 1:1 rockers).
"advertised" duration would be 250°

Most new engine builders have a tendency to over cam there first several motors, First time engine builders are warned about  " Over C's "  It's very easy to Over Cam, Over Carb and Over Compression until your on your 4th or 5th motor.
We give the following Rule of  Thumb suggestion on picking your first cam. And we realize that every "Rule of Thumb" is made to be broken, but please don't go wild until you gain some experience building VW motors. Please Note that this is the Maximum Recommended for the type carburator your running and not likely the Ideal cam for your motor. We normally find we like around 270 degrees duration for our street cars and our Stock 1600cc class motor won a lot of races with 274 degree duration cam.
-- Rule Of Thumb for picking you VW Cam -- This is the Maximum the carburetor likes not what's Best."
One Carb with single throat .........Maximum Duration of 275 degrees
One Carb with Dual throats .........Maximum Duration of 285 degrees
Dual Carbs ( The carb's do not limit duration as with single carb use. ) 

It makes absolutely no sense to build a motor with a stock crank, that should not be revved over 5000 rpm and then put a cam in it that performs best at 6000 or more RPM. Even an all out race motor used for off road needs lots of  torque in the lower RPM not a couple of extra horses at the end of the longest straight.
 
If you need help picking a cam, first gather up as much information as you can, and then head out to your local engine builder. Remember you wont necessarily get the correct information from man down the street who has the fastest VW in town. Better find out who built his motor and take all your information to the experienced motor builder.
If you are on a tight budget you might be considering a reground cam and lifters. My opinion is to save money some place else. When a cam is reground the base circle gets smaller and smaller and when reground lifters are also used the lifter starts coming out of the lifter bore. We won't even get into the surface hardness of the cam and lifters. Use a New Cam and Lifters break it in as recommended.

Check Out the Cam card that came with the cam as it gives some important information. Ok we all know .420Lx276D is Lifting the valve .420" and the 276D is the numbers of Degrees the cam keeps the valve open. Now some cams also show the Duration at .050" This is because some cam grinders have a very slow ramp getting the valve started and some use a short ramp. The W100 Engle cam below  uses 15' to get the valve open the first .050" & another 15'  to  ease it closed on the seat. Now the TCS 30 Turbo cam uses 0ver 20' to move the valve the first .050"  You will also see the Lobe centers like 108' and some listed like 284/276. These are the split Duration cams. (We would recommend leaving these to the experienced engine builder) We find it a lot easer to experiment with different rockers on Exhaust and intake valves. We have had some motors that really like a 1:1 rocker on the Ex. & 1.25 to 1 on the intake valve. Don't be fooled by the head shop that list the flow at 1.5" or some ridicules valve lift. And the "Fast Freddy" engine builder that always recommends hi lift rockers. Same goes for Extra large Ports & bigger valves. Building a motor with good torque is a lot different then building a drag motor that wont pull away from a stop light below 5000 RPM.


continua en el siguiente post.

[Yudelgr]

 


Algo mas!!!



En este mismo lugar te recomiendan usar kit de piston y cilindros de 90.5mm, la causa es que es el que mejor balance tiene entre temperatura de funcioamiento, a causa del grosor del material del cilindro, si escojes uno de mayor tamaño tanto el monoblok como las cabezas y la pared del cilindro se ven comprometidas en su resistencia, puedes modificar la carrera para obtener un motor de 2 litros mas menos, en cuanto a lo demas ya viene en lo que esta en ingles.


Solo me falto ponerte lso datos de diferentes marcas y modelos de arboles de levas con sus especificaciones, aun hay mas info de los arboles pero aqui esta la que yo te envio.




ENGLE Camshafts

 Engle Cam W100 .420L/276 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam W110 .430L/284 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam W120 .435L/294 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam W125 .460L/301 Degrees Duration 
 Engle Cam W130 .460L/308 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam W140 .465L/313 Degrees Duration

 Engle Cam VZ14 .462L/274 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam VZ15 .478L/279 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam VZ25 .470L/286 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam VZ30 .507L/298 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam VZ35 .490L/309 Degrees Duration

 Engle Cam FK7 .500L/288 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam FK8 .534L/298 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam FK10 .539L/310 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam FK43 .536L/281 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam FK65 .478L/280 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam FK89 .582L/328 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam FK97 .622L/328 Degrees Duration
 Engle Cam FK98 .624L/332 Degrees Duration

 Engle Cam TCS 10 TURBOCAM 284/276D X .430/.420 Lift 
 Engle Cam TCS 20 TURBOCAM 294/284D X .435/.430 Lift 
 Engle Cam TCS 30 TURBOCAM 308/294D X .460/.435 Lift

SCAT Camshafts

 T-1 CAM C20 .338in Lift X 278  Degrees Duration
 T-1 CAM C25 .385in Lift X 275  Degrees Duration
 T-1 CAM C35 .410in Lift X 286 Degrees Duration
 T-1 CAM C45 .418in Lift X 296 Degrees Duration
 T-1 CAM C55 .428in Lift X 312  Degrees Duration
 T-1 CAM C65 .440in Lift X 318 Degrees Duration
 T-1 CAM C75 .445in Lift X 342 Degrees Duration
 T-1 CAM C85 .574in Lift X 330 Degrees Duration 
 T-1 CAM C95 .475in Lift X 286 Degrees Duration 
 T-1 CAM C89 .618in Lift X 325 Degrees Duration

 T-4 CAM .415in Lift X 278 Degrees Duration
 T-4 CAM .473in Lift X 275 Degrees Duration
 T-4 CAM .503in Lift X 286 Degrees Duration

Eagle Cam Sold by CB

2229 Cam - Advertised Duration 260° and Duration. at .050" is 216° / Lift at cam .299"
2230 Cam - Advertised Duration 264° and Duration at .050" is 220° / Lift at cam .301"
2231 Cam - Advertised Duration 268° and Duration at .050" is 228° / Lift at cam .313"
2232 Cam - Advertised Duration 262° and Duration at .050" is 230° / Lift at cam .360"
2233 Cam - Advertised Duration 272° and Duration at .050" is 234° / Lift at cam .371"
2234 Cam - Advertised Duration 274° and Duration at .050" is 234° / Lift at cam .387"
2235 Cam - Advertised Duration 270° and Duration at .050" is 236° / Lift at cam .374"
2236 Cam - Advertised Duration 280° and Duration at .050" is 236° / Lift at cam .339"
2237 Cam - Advertised Duration 278° and Duration at .050" is 244° / Lift at cam .421"
2238 Cam - Advertised Duration 274° and Duration at .050" is 236° / Lift at cam .319"
2239  Cam - Advertised Duration 276° and Duration at .050" is 234° / Lift at cam .380"
2240  Cam - Advertised Duration 286° and Duration at .050" is 248° / Lift at cam .430"
2241  Cam - Advertised Duration 286° and Duration at .050" is 240° / Lift at cam .386"
2242  Cam - Advertised Duration 298° and Duration at .050" is 248° / Lift at cam .389"
2243  Cam - Advertised Duration 306° and Duration at .050" is 250° / Lift at cam .424"
2244  Cam - Advertised Duration 300° and Duration at .050" is 250° / Lift at cam .370"
2245  Cam - Advertised Duration 318° and Duration at .050" is 270° / Lift at cam .393"
2246  Cam - Advertised Duration 314° and Duration at .050" is 260° / Lift at cam .411"
2247  Cam - Advertised Duration 328° and Duration at .050" is 278° / Lift at cam .410"
2248  Cam - Advertised Duration 318° and Duration at .050" is 276° / Lift at cam .401"
2249  Cam - Advertised Duration 326° and Duration at .050" is 280° / Lift at cam .405"
2250  Cam - Advertised Duration 296° and Duration at .050" is 256° / Lift at cam .420"
2280  Cam - Advertised Duration 274° and Duration at .050" is 222° / Lift at cam .359"

Eagle Drag Racing Cams Sold by CB

2288 Cam (K-8) Advertised Duration 308° and Duration at .050" 256° / Lift at cam .378" / Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .415" / Lift w/1.25:1 .473" / Lift w/1.4:1 .529" / Lift w/1.5:1 .567"
 
2289 Cam (FK-87) Advertised Duration 322° and Duration at .050" 274° / Lift at cam .398" / Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .437" / Lift w/1.25:1 .498" / Lift w/1.4:1 .557" / Lift w/1.5:1 .597"

2295 Cam Advertised Duration 314° and Duration at .050'' 270° / Lift at cam .415'' / Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .456'' / Lift w/1.25:1 .518'' / Lift w/1.4:1 .581'' / Lift w/1.5:1 .622''
 
2296 Cam Advertised Duration 320° and Duration at .050'' 280° / Lift at cam .424'' / Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .466'' / Lift w/1.25:1 .530'' / Lift w/1.4:1 .593'' / Lift w/1.5:1 .636''

2297 Cam Advertised Duration 332° and Duration at .050'' 288° / Lift at cam .435'' / Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .478'' / Lift w/1.25:1 .543'' / Lift w/1.4:1 .609'' / Lift w/1.5:1 .652''

2298 Cam (FK-89) Advertised Duration 328° and Duration at .050" 278° / Lift at cam .407" / Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .447" / Lift w/1.25:1 .509" / Lift w/1.4:1 .570" / Lift w/1.5:1 .611"
 
2299 Cam (FK-97) Advertised Duration 322° and Duration at .050" 284° / Lift at cam .435" / Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .478" / Lift w/1.25:1 .544" / Lift w/1.4:1 .609" / Lift w/1.5:1 .653"

Web Cams

Grind # 86 - Cam .358 Lift x 270 Degrees Duration
Grind # 111 - Cam .476 Lift x 272 Degrees Duration
Grind # 119 - Cam .422 Lift x 276 Degrees Duration
Grind # 218  - Cam .455 Lift x 280 Degrees Duration
Grind # 118  - Cam .402 Lift x 283 Degrees Duration
Grind # 163  - Cam .422 Lift x 284 Degrees Duration
Grind # 110  - Cam .435 Lift x 284 Degrees Duration
Grind # 218/119 - Cam .455/.422 Lift x 280/276 Degrees Duration
Grind # 110/163  - Cam .435/.422 Lift x 284 Degrees Duration
Grind # 109/119 - Cam .465/.422 Lift x 287/276 Degrees Duration
Grind # 109 - Cam .465 Lift x 287 Degrees Duration
Grind # 122/125 - Cam .506/.478 Lift x 288 Degrees Duration
Grind # 121 - Cam .490 Lift x 298 Degrees Duration


continua en el siguiente post

 

[Yudelgr]

 


un plus




Align Bore Case

When  the crank end play becomes excessive, the case will most likely need to be "Align-Bored".
It might be after 100,000 miles or more, but it can happen a lot sooner if the motor has been overheated and over revved.
  If you don't take care of excessive end play when it first becomes apparent, you take the chance of ruining the case if you continue to use a motor. If you run the VW motor with .015 end play, the end play will double and triple in just a short time. End play develops when the flywheel end, main bearing becomes loose in the case. When new this bearing has approximately .003" crush fit. When the thickness of the bearing saddle measures .790" it will be questionable if the case can be saved. After machining the minimum dimension of a "#2 Thrust" Bearing is .786".  Main bearings come in "Std. Thrust",  "#1 Thrust" and "#2 Thrust".   Click here for more Bearing information.
 
  There are some builders who refuse to align-bore the VW case. There are several different reasons. We personally have align-bored hundreds of cases and have had no problems. But you must carefully inspect the case to confirm it is worth using. If the lifter bores are worn, case warped or cracked then don't waste your time having it bored.
  If you take your case in to have it alien-bored then that's what the shop will do. It's your responsibility to check it out first.
  If the Shop builds the motor, then it's up to them to check out the case. Many builders don't want to take a chance or spend the time checking out used cases. It's cheaper for them to just use a new case and pass on the expense to the customer. We personally build all our race motors with used cases as we feel they are more stable after going through the hundreds of heat cycles.
       
                        *** Check for cracks  prior to align boring.***

First place to check is the top right side cylinder stud area on the flywheel end. The crack will go up from the stud and over top of case.

Second place is under flywheel in front of #3 cylinder opening. First clean all oil from the surface behind the flywheel. Then heat up the this cleaned area with a propane torch and look for an oily crack line.

(This is where the 1835cc engines crack if not step bored or if the case saver for the top stud next to flywheel behind #3 cyl. was not deep sunk in the main bearing saddle casting.)

Check if case is warped, any gap between main bearing saddles after the two bare case halves have been torqued, can be seen if you shine a light in one end and look through the other end main bearing hole.
Check the (5) main bearing locating pin holes. Some cases will have six but five is all you will use. If you find a bearing pin loose in the case, this means the case was most likely overheated some time in the past. The case should be checked out a little more closely, but the case can be used with a step bearing dowel or by using a little JB weld to locate the dowel. If the case is align bored with the proper bearing crush ( minus .003" ) then the bearing dowel will do very little until the motor overheats due to a dropped fan belt or some other overheating problem. But if the align bore job was sloppy then the bearing dowel is the only thing keeping the mains from turning.

 Before placing the bearings on the crank, Place both full circle bearings in the case on there locating pins and mark both sides of bearing at the case parting line. (This will insure the bearings will be installed properly when crank is installed in case)


Check Oil Pick Up (must be tight with no leakage)
  "Cleaning the VW Case" and Keeping it Clean
Note: Your case must be thoroughly cleaned after it has been Align Bored but also remember to clean the case before taking it to the shop to be checked for an align-bore. Inspect for cracks can only be done if the case is clean. Remove all bearing dowels, bearings, O-rings from the (6) center case studs and distributor shims.

Pull the oil relief springs and pistons (2 in dual relief late model cases.) and make sure they are installed in the correct hole when replaced.

D-burr all main bearing saddles and flush all oil passages. This can be done at the car wash by plugging all oil passages but two.
Flush the passage in both directions and then move on to the next passage.

We Start with the Oil cooler inlet and outlet and plug and flush all the oil passages one by one.

Some oil galleys will have dead ends where the factory plugs the end of an oil passage.

Over time these dead end passages fill with crud & metal chips that can do major damage to new bearings in just minutes.
If you have any doubt about how clean the passages are, it is best to drill out the plugs. You will have to drill & tap each hole and install a plug after cleaning each passage. Oil Galley Plug Kit includes 5 of the1/8" plugs , 2 of the 1/4" , and 2 of the 3/8" plugs.
                   Note: Buy the new oil galley plugs before drilling out the old ones.

Run a thread die down all studs to clean threads and then double check the case parting surface for old gasket sealer and nicks. 
Blow out all oil passages with compressed air. After cleaning, store the case in a plastic trash bag to insure it stays clean. main bearing
Note: Cam bearing bore = 1.082 / 1.085"  ( Bore gets smaller with wear. ) Most Shops will check the cam bore and true when they Line Bore the case. "Be Sure to Ask"
Oversize cam bearings #111 198 542 order $17.95

           
"Take your time" -- "Keep it Clean" -- and -- "Read the Book"
 
........Never use Silicon seal as a gasket sealer,........

Check for air leaks, and Check for air leaks again.

Always set the timing by the book, You can not set the timing at an Idle by ear.

Your Engine will overheat and be destroyed if timing is off or if carb jetting is to lean.

..... Clean Air *..... Clean Oil *..... and .....Do Not let it Overheat.....



Espero te sirva la informacion asi entienderas mas de que diablos esta hablando el mecanico cuando te explica, este es mi granito en tu eleccion solo tu decides esto solo es una guia y sirve para saber los pros y contras de lo que le vas hacer a tu motor.



P.D. si puedes invitame a ver la primera encendida de tu motor yo estoy en mty espero tu tambien.



 

 

 

[Toronja mecanica]

Me imagino qué lo quieres para correr en la calle Yhea!!

Ármate un 1915cc con turbo.

Turbo kit T3\T4 (En Covarrubias los venden)
Valvula Blow OFF HKS
Lineas de aceite para el turbo
Boost Controller Manual
Pistones 94mm
Porteado de cabezas
Resortes rigidos
Buzos solidos SCAT
Arbol de levas SCAT C35
Bomba de aceite alto rendimiento
Aro dentado rebajado
Clutch 4lbs
webers dobles 44

Es para traer el turbo de 3 a 7psi; Ya que si te sobra la lana metele los pistones forjados y bielas H en cromoly con tornilleria ARP.

Ya que si quieres algo stock de fabrica y que corra bien comparte un Tsuru, Lucino o 240sx con motor SR20 y utilizas tu vochito solo para disfrutarlo.

[Toronja mecanica]

http://www.covarrubiasbuggies.com/catalogo/product.php?id_product=1031

Esas son las chompas Forjadas con valvulas mas grandes.

http://www.covarrubiasbuggies.com/catalogo/product.php?id_product=585

Ese esel Turbo Kit